Closing the deck

After more than two weeks of preparation, I was finally able to glue the rest of the deck in place. The preparation mainly consisted of painting the interior. This is easier and less unpleasant in an open space. I also painted the underside of the deck panels, which is much easier to do on a table than from underneath after installation.

A friend helped me with the gluing. Before gluing, we screwed handles onto the panels so that we could lift and position them without smearing epoxy everywhere.

I am very happy with the result; everything went according to plan.

A short break after work to admire the result…

As in the front part of the boat, the wooden areas here will also be painted blue.

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Laminating the front part of the deck

As with the underside of the hull, I first had to laminate fibreglass strips over all the edges. This went much better than on the underside.

This time, I didn’t use woven fibreglass strips (left), but biax fibreglass tape (right). This is easier to drape over the edges. It also makes more sense for reinforcing the edges, because all the fibres go over the edge.

I also used biax fabric instead of woven fibreglass for the deck. I found a 610 gram fabric that allowed me to achieve the required thickness in one go.

As always, I covered everything with a layer of peel-ply at the end.

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Cockpit

All areas under the cockpit have now been painted.
So it was time to finalise the design of the cockpit floor and benches.

I sourced extra-strong aluminium hatches for the access openings (many thanks to Manuel Bürgi from Marina Sport in Horw). These hatches are completely watertight and sturdy. This is important because I have completely separated the area in the middle, under the cockpit floor, from the other areas and therefore need a hatch there.
I will install small, waterproof boxes in the backrests for storing small items and food.

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Cut-Outs

Now that the first piece of the deck is glued on, I made the cut-outs for the deck hatch and the portlights (the small windows on the side).

The hatch and portlights have to be mounted on a flat surface. Because the deck is curved, I had to glue on frames to compensate for the curvature. This reveals an interesting property of plywood: you would expect plywood to bend in only one direction, similar to a sheet of paper. But the deck is actually curved in two directions.

Finally, I smoothed out the transition from the deck to the frame. This was not for aesthetic reasons, but because it makes it easier to laminate the entire deck with fibreglass.

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Front part of deck

Finally glued the first piece of the deck in place!
The first piece, the small triangle at the front, was quite easy.
The next piece was much more difficult. How do you get such a large piece into exactly the right place on the first attempt without smearing all the resin?
I screwed two hooks into the ceiling and lifted the piece into place using strings.

Then I started gluing: first, I coated all the gluing points with resin. Then I applied the thickened epoxy to the frames and stringers.

After that, I slowly lowered the panel using the strings. I fixed the position with two screws on the front edge before shaping the panel with weights.

Now all I had to do was screw everything together securely.

This is what it looks like inside the front compartment now. The unpainted section will be cut out later to install the hatch.

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Casting the lead bulbs

It was a great weekend!
Three other boat builders came to visit me so that we could cast the lead bulbs for our boats together.
First up was Fabian (#208), who built two beautiful moulds.

We were able to borrow the casting equipment from Thomas (#66), who has already finished his lead bomb. Many thanks to him, it worked perfectly!

We were fortunate in obtaining the lead: the company on whose premises my workshop is located had manufactured a batch of lead casings for X-ray machines and saved the milling chips for us.

It took us almost an hour to melt the lead and bring it to the right temperature.
We cast two bulbs one after the other and then waited four hours until they were cold enough to remove them from the mould.

At first, we were afraid that we wouldn’t be able to get the bulbs out of the mould. But the lead shrank as it cooled, and soon we could see a gap between the mould and the lead.

The result of the first two runs.

And these are the four of us boat builders: Oliver (#273), Fabian (#208), me (#165) and Dominique (#220).

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Work in the front

I continued working on the front part of the boat. Since I accepted that I will never be a good painter, I am much more relaxed when painting.

Everything that is not white now will be painted blue later, after the deck has been glued on.

I have already prepared the front part of the deck for gluing. Except for the gluing areas, the underside of the deck has already been painted white.

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Deck beams

I continued working on the deck beams. There is also another white piece in the forecastle (=finished).

The two square pieces are the frames for the two deck hatches.

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Getting more practice in painting

I painted the bunks. Painted means finished!
I particularly like the contrast between the dark blue holes and the white side panels.

I am slowly learning how to proceed to achieve an acceptable result. As with many things, the magic word is patience.

Never try to do too much at once.

And it’s better to mix small amounts of paint several times than to mix a large amount once. This takes a lot of time (I use a two-component PU paint that has to rest for 15 minutes after mixing), but the paint always has the right consistency.

Apply thin layers. I applied four layers. After the first layer, it looks terrible, as if it will never work. After the second layer, it looks a little better and you start to hope that it will work after all. Only after the third layer does it look reasonably even.

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Finishing some things

Before gluing the frame for the lower hatch, I drilled holes for the screws (with a larger diameter than the screws). I filled these holes with epoxy. When I drill the holes for the screws at the end, once the bulkhead has been covered with fibreglass and painted, the wood in the holes will be protected by the epoxy.

Then I got to work in the fore cabin. After changing the partitioning, I had to repaint the individual compartments. The compartments are now finished and the floor between them has also been painted.

The foundation for the toilet is also there. I had to install it so that the toilet could be mounted horizontally.

Then back to the stern. There I finished the storage lockers. I’m still not a good painter, but I’m getting better with the practice.

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