Blog

I still work inside the boat. I have made a small folding seat that covers the bilge pump. The seat also serves as a step to get into the forecabin.

Then I started work on one of the more complex parts, the frame for the floorboards.

I want to use the space under the floorboards as storage space, so I fitted the boards with hinges and latches. Because I will often be moving around on my knees in the boat, all the hinges and catches have to be recessed.

I’m getting quite good at making templates for my router…

The keel bolts are used to attach the keel to the hull. All the forces of the keel are transferred to the hull via these bolts, so everything to do with them has to be done carefully. I glued thin fibreglass tubes into the holes to prevent water from getting past the bolts and into the wood of the hull. I learnt the best way to do this from Fabian (driftingdonkey.ch).

After I had drilled the holes, I had to lift the boat so that I could get to the underside.

Ich sanded little bevels at to the ends of the holes. This ensures that the ends are securely sealed and there are no fine gaps.

Next, I sealed the underside of the holes with adhesive tape and secured them with a small board.

Then the most important step: fill the holes almost to the top with epoxy, give the wood a while to soak up the epoxy (the plywood in particular can absorb a lot of resin), and then push the fibreglass tubes into the holes.
In this way, the tubes are completely glued to the wood along their entire length.
After the resin has hardened, remove the tape. You can see from the neatly filled bevels that there are no air bubbles anywhere, which shows that everything is perfectly glued and sealed.

The disadvantage of this method is that the tubes are now full of resin, which still needs to be removed with a drill. I have left the tubes extra long. The extra piece serves as a guide for the drill.

The final Result after removing the Resin and sanding:

The many details in the galley and at the chart table were a lot of work. But it was worth it, I’m happy with the result.

Now just a bit of filling and sanding, then this part is ready for painting.

I’ve also started fitting the deck beams. I will work my way from the front to the back.

Fabian from ‘drifting donkey’ (#208) visited me again. We watched the start of the 580-Transat together (https://globe580transat.com/). So here are two 580 builders, in a half-finished 580, watching the start of the 580-Transat. And making plans to take part in the next Transat in 2026…

Making progress in the back.
I installed two walls under the cockpit floor to divide the aft section into three separate compartments. This is not only a safety feature but also prevents stowed objects from rolling under the cockpit.

I added reinforcements to the transom and the hull floor for the two daggerboards. Two angle irons have to be fitted between the floor and the mirror. I glued in threaded sleeves to be able to screw these firmly into the floor.

I have started working on the rudder. I bought an extra sheet of 10mm mahogany marine plywood for this. Using the template from the kit, I sawed out the necessary four layers.

First I painted everything with epoxy. I then waited a while to allow the wood to soak in.

I put on thickened epoxy for gluing. A simple tool to get an even layer is a comb. I used wooden dowels to position the layers exactly.

Along the trailing edge of the rudder I added a 2mm thick strip of fiberglass laminate. This allows me to form a nice sharp trailing edge.

When all the layers are on top of each other, press the whole thing together nicely.

I continued with the front compartment. I’m building 5 separate storage lockers.

Fit the vertical panels.

Then the horizontal panels.

Then cut out the holes for the lids. And of course cover all in epoxy.

I had to decide how to install my toilet. Looking forwards

or looking backwards.

All my friends, including fellow 580 builder Fabian (driftingdonkey.ch), were in favour of ‘facing backwards’. Even all the 580s that were already finished with a toilet (most don’t have one) had their toilet installed this way.
So I’m installing mine facing forwards.
It makes sense to me: closer to the centre of rotation of the boat and more headroom. And I can lean back against the bulkhead.

I decided to paint the interior in a mix of blue and white.

I checked whether the mattresses fit. I even slept in the boat!
Ok, we had a party in the workshop and it was getting late…

I’m in the process of building the extra storage spaces next to the bunks. I put in small structures to hold the covers in place.

This is how it will look when it’s finished.

Time for a little break. This is my favorite place in the cockpit. The angle of the frame is just perfect.

Before I order the hatches, I wanted to try out which size I need. Firstly, I made a hole in the smallest size I was considering.

I could fit through it, but I’d better go for a bigger one.
That way I can get through the bulkhead easily.

Another detail: I made rails on the bunk-sides. They keep the mattresses in place. The holes are for attaching lee clothes (piece of cloth or net that is fitted between bunk side and roof, to stop me rolling out of bed when the boat is heeling).